Wednesday, February 18, 2009

Guiris,

Buenas tardes. I just ate enough to feed a family of Siberian tigers, and I know this because I watch the Spanish equivalent of animal planet with my adopted mom, Ines. We also watch what I call "Spanish Jeopardy" and "Spanish Wayans Bros.", and sometimes, "Spanish Disney-Channel Show". There's also a bizarre series where grown men do 4th grade science projects and interview famous people. Will Smith was on the other day, who, so I've learned, is a prized actor among Spaniards. I think myself the prized neighborhood guiri (foreigner) by virtue of association (we're both from Philadelphia).

That said, I'm here in Granada after a grueling 5 hour trip last week (2 weeks ago?), and I'm making myself at home. The city sits just at the foot of the Sierra Nevadas, and my school overlooks the Alhambra. I'm living with Ines and her daughter Elena, who has been in Berlin and upon her return, I found myself suffering from only child syndrome. Fortunately, she's very very cool and I'm quite over the fact that Ines is her mother and not mine (really). They've both been wonderful in showing me Granada and Ines cooks a traditional Spanish meal for me every day, which is much more than I could ask for. That said, I only go out for ethnic food, pizza and Moroccan tea. The age old question can rest--yes, all you need is good food to be happy. 

My typical schedule starts with school from either 9-12 or 9-2:30 (alternating every day), and I go home for siesta (feast followed by nap) at 3. Between 4:30 and 9 is playtime and we eat dinner around 9:30 or 10:00. On weekends, Spaniards go out around 11 or 12 for tapas, which are basically free meals that come with your purchased drink, and they hit the discotecas around 2-3 (to stay out until morning). Us Americans have yet to acclimate to this schedule- I don't think most of us have made it past 3.

Cultural activities are also a very normal component of the day. Last night, we went out for dinner and flamenco and tonight, we're going to see Federico Garcia Llorca's play, "Bodas de Sangre". Speaking of Spanish, I am happy to say I have been mistaken several times for being able to speak Spanish. Understanding Spanish is very dependent on who's speaking. Andalusians have some of the most incomprehensible accents (lisping their c's, dropping s's off of every word) and they speak ridiculously fast. Fortunately, I'm adjusting relatively quickly, the result of hearing so much every day. 

Next week, I'm presenting a project proposal to Granada Acoge, an organization that works with immigrants to Granada, to teach a group of kids some form of elementary photography. This would combine everything I want to do here (work with kids, work with excluded minorities, work with photography) and would give me an opportunity to speak with people (children) who probably have worse grammar than I do. Still, it feels slightly impossible, given that I've never taught a group of 20 kids anything in English. If I can't teach, I'm hoping they'll at least let me play with them. 

I feel myself quickly integrating with the warm culture here. People are easy to speak to and love to strike up conversations with strangers. I'm also "suffering" with them, as the bus workers are on strike (La Huelga) and what should be a 20 minute bus trip to school sometimes takes an hour and a half (while the workers take a smoke). The strike or manefestacion of the strike actually happens right in front in my apartment complex every Monday, Wednesday and Friday. It's really wonderful to see the community's support for the men and women on strike, despite that they have to arrive late to work 3 times a week.

So...that's all and a lot for now. I have to leave this tea house as it's getting packed and I've only spent 2 bucks here. 

Thursday, February 12, 2009

Ciao Madrileños

Finalmente, estoy en Granada.
It's one of the most beautiful places I've ever seen. Beats Madrid, no doubt.
A few photos:



Brown Sugar? My host family has good taste.



El Zaidin (a barrio of Granada).


My bedroom. 


La Cocina (the kitchen). I spend a lot of time in here standing over my host mom's shoulder (she's tiny), talking about food and politics and other things of which I have no vocabulary in Spanish, yet. 


Elena's drawing of Tarek. He's a year or 2 older than me, a Moroccan friend of the family, and comes around just about every day to help me do things (buy a phone, hook up the internet, etc), because Elena's in Berlin. He and Ines (my host mom) like to have friendly arguments over whether foods are Arabe or Español. They're actually pretty funny together. 


And some photos from Madrid

More to come from my daily walk about in El Albaicin (a barrio across from El Alhambra).

Thursday, February 5, 2009

Vistete como quieras pero vistete bien!

I'm sitting in the cafe of Hostal Persal and feel like I've been run over by a truck. However (and to your certain surprise), I have not yet been run over, despite the near fatalities of many Americans that cross the street in Europe. I am in Madrid, and the feeling that accompanies a new place, people and language dismisses my physical exhaustion and just about everything else. The city is incredible, the people are passionate, and time never stops here. Between siestas and tapas, I imagine that no one ever gets a full night of sleep. I certainly haven't, and without a watch or phone, I measure the days in cafe con leche (anything to keep me awake). But life is easy.

Getting here, however, was a 3-d ride to hell (will someone see "My Bloody Valentine" for me?!). Our first flight to Madrid was canceled when our connecting flight came to odds with the lack of snow plows in Great Britain. It was one of the 650 cancelled to Heathrow 3 (4?) days ago, and so our group waited an extra day and an hour for another flight out of JFK. I travelled with 9 of the 13 students on my program, which is a story in itself. Nick thought the 2nd flight was cancelled and no one could find Stacy. Somehow, we all ended up on the 1 pm flight to Madrid out of Heathrow the next day, and met the other 4 at the hotel.

Since then, we've been mostly not sleeping and not eating much, much like the Spaniards, but running around Madrid and adoring the architecture (much like tourists). We've had a tour guide for the past 2 days, whose name we've all made up (Jose, Luis, Pablo, any given Spanish name...), and who loves to say things in English that are only recognizable as jokes when he laughs incessantly after saying them. Our program director, Cristina Enriquez, too can't speak in English for 5 minutes without cracking a joke. por ejemplo: just 5 minutes ago when she passed all of us on our laptops, she says, "Do you know what I want to be when I grow up? A computer! (insert her loud, smoker's laugh) Then I'l have a lot of friends!" Along with the club promoters who yell "TENEMOS LOS MOJITOS MEJORES" when we walk by ("We have the best mojitos!"), constant hilarity.

Tomorrow we make the epic journey to Granada where I will meet my host family. I'm living with a single mother and her daughter, Elena, que tenia 21 anos, and I'm very excited. I'm not nervous but anticipate anxiety when I offer them Phillies paraphanelia in exchange for staying in their home and eating their food for the next four months. I hope they like me.

I also get to begin my Independent Study in a couple of weeks, which is a focus on some aspect of the community in photography. I'm hoping to focus on immigrants in the community and maybe take a local photography class. I might also get in on my friend Katie's project here and document her project on a rising hip hop scene in Granada's gypsy culture- I can't wait.

I will try my best to update. Apparently, this post was hard for me to write because just being here makes me think any time is lost on the internet, but I'm sure I'll get over that soon enough. Pictures will follow soon because words simply cannot express the beauty I'm living in. I miss and love you all.

Hasta pronto amigos!
& forever plur,

Cristin